![]() The power (i 2r) loss that creates heat at this point being proportional to the square of the current! In your situation this won't cause an increase in overall current draw from pump, it might even be a tad less so fuse won't be effected.Īs an example I had a suitably fused high current DC connection on a boat secured solidly through 15mm plywood by M12 nuts and bolt. The heat damage occurs due to build up over a significant amount of time often due to the tiniest additional contact resistance allied to constant significant current draw. This is not at all unusual Louis in any electrical circuit high or low voltage, AC or DC. I searched the injector harness, the rear tank wires, where the. I have searched the car up and down for a rubbed wire. ![]() I checked the fuses and the fuel pump/injector fuse was blown. just odd that we have the exact same symptoms, but in any event, have now solved with a solution just like yours. The other night I had my GN out and it died just after leaving a burger joint. happened to me with the stock pump, although if the issue is a faulty connection in the fuse block this would melt the connection but not blow the fuse. ’91-’92: Power Door Locks, Power Seats, Rear Window Defogger. Thanks for the info, and wonder if this isn't a common problem (well, at least more than just the two of us). ’88-’90: Power Door Locks, Power Seats, Rear Window Defogger. Not saying that applies to your car Louis but it may to others in the future, you may just have a loose connector. Maybe a good idea to break and make the fuse box connectors to ensure good connections? I suppose we have a mentality that M3W's are still "new" cars and shouldn't suffer from problems like corroded electrics, thats for "old" cars, but some are now over 10 years old and have sat in cold damp garages. I think your problem is with the fuse box installation and it's poor connectors. The Range Rover V8 EFi owners researched the issue with the standard pump pretty well, although I will agree it is vastly over specified for the S&S X-Wedge requirements. There have been very few (none?) fuel pump failures reported after changing to the Walbro GS342 fuel pump. Take your car into the shop to get it checked out.It is not a common problem, most failures are of the original specification fuel pump, not the power supply. If the fuse blows again, a direct short is present and will need to be diagnosed. X Research source Try to replace the blown fuel fuse and try and start vehicle. If you find a blown fuse, that might be a sign that you've got a high amp draw and you need to check the individual circuits.If you need to replace a fuse, make sure you use one with a proper amp rating, never installing one with more amps than necessary.If no fuses are blown, have a helper turn the key while you listen for fuel pump relay clicking on. If it looks good, check the rest of the fuses related to the fuel system for signs of being blown and replace them, if necessary. If the fuse is blown, it will be broken or burned. Pull it out and inspect it for signs of failure. /rebates/2farticle2fsymptoms-of-a-bad-or-failing-fuel-pump-relay&. Check in your owner's manual for the location of the fuse box, then find the fuse that corresponds to the fuel pump. Everything that is supplying electrical power needs a fuse or a breaker to protect against overloads and short circuits. Often, it's not the pump itself that fails to function, but the power that supplies it.
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